Thurs-Tue : 6pm-11pm
460/8 Sirindhorn Road Bangplad Bangkok 10700
Fasten your seatbelt and get ready for a crazy culinary journey. Na-Oh is based in a disused aircraft that you enter by a vintage lift. After your meal, you can exit by an emergency slide if you so wish. Nobody could describe this restaurant as conventional.
Na-Oh and Chang Chui Night Market where it stands are the inspiration of fashion designer Somchai Songwattana, who hired Australian consultants Bondi Belly to run the restaurant, which opened in December 2018.
A Lockheed L-1011 TriStar formerly used by Thai Sky Airlines has been loaded with taxidermy mounts including lions and polar bears (all legally acquired, I was assured) to create a latter-day Noah’s Ark in a post-apocalypse world where the survivors are fed by waiting staff in black togas.
“We wanted to create something unique, outstanding and futuristic,” says project director Max Natee. “This is life after doomsday. We create multicultural dishes that reflect our mission. We have a Michelin-starred chef joining us soon who will help us to evolve our menu.”
Diners can choose between a five-course menu at 1,800 baht ++ or an eight-course menu at 2,800 baht ++ created by head chef Mo-na Teeratada. We were travelling first class and opted for the latter.
The first course was titled Fertile and comprised stuffed tomato, popped rice, nori and prosciutto ham. Then it was Summer Time in Bondi where tasty tiger prawns were served with pickled onion, caperberry and sea foam.
Velvet Sky, featuring roasted duck breast with sunflower sprout and apricot, was beautifully tender, while Holidays in Love comprised baby octopus with poached apple and caramel miso.
Soup from that Day was a delicate broth with blue mussels, seaweed and a quail’s egg that was followed by a quirky Re-Zero refresher of fennel seeds, rock sugar and rosewater that you spray into your mouth.
Then came our two main courses, the highlight of the meal. Land of Pleasure featured slow-cooked beef cheek with grilled cabbage and compressed onion. The meat was succulent and satisfying. Jungle is Calling had delicious grilled toothfish with honey miso, cauliflower and fennel.
We completed our feast with Mrs Summer, a delightful dessert of coconut gelato, grilled daifuku and longan tea.
Na-Oh is the perfect venue for that special occasion. Go on, treat yourself. Travel tip: if you are in central Bangkok, take the skytrain to Bang Wa to avoid the traffic and then take a short taxi ride to the restaurant.